Launched in 1982, Estee Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair (ANR) has earned a cult following among celebrities and ordinary people. As one of the most popular skincare products in the world, we decided to put the “little brown bottle” to the test to see if it’s worth your money. Since its inception in 1982, the product has only improved with age. In 2020, the brand revealed a new and enhanced recipe for its best-selling product. While the first serum was unique in its approach to overnight skin regeneration, the new serum claims to diminish the appearance of fine lines faster than before, in only three weeks. It isn’t inexpensive, with a suggested retail price of $79 for a 1 oz. bottle.
So, does it live up to the expectations?
Fab Daily got their hands on a bottle to find out what’s truly within the legendary recipe. Shannon Lawlor, our Editorial Beauty Consultant, put it to the test. Estee Lauder introduced Night Repair, the first skincare solution that works overnight to minimise visible symptoms of ageing, forty years ago. It promised to brighten the complexion; soothe dry, patchy skin; hydrate; level out skin tone; and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It was the first skincare product to incorporate the plumping ingredient hyaluronic acid, as well as the first to use novel packaging—the dark brown bottle with a pipette to provide the “allure” of a premium product. This scientific approach to skincare is what propelled ANR to prominence.
However, the desire for ingredient-driven skincare has skyrocketed over the years, and Estee Lauder has faced stiff competition from more cheap alternatives. Since its inception, the ANR formula has been revised four times. ANR was called Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II in 2013, and this is when Estee Lauder’s experts truly took things to the next level. The brand boasted that it now includes powerful ingredients like squalene to restore the skin’s natural protective barrier and high quantities of antioxidants to reduce the damage caused by pollution and UV radiation.
However, it did not take long for these identical components to be found in lower-cost goods elsewhere. In a subsequent bid, Estee Lauder utilised all-new ChronoluxCB to differentiate their serum. The proprietary technique was stated to interact with the skin’s natural rhythm, assisting in nighttime regeneration and preventing against damage throughout the day. The industry welcomed the new mix, and several customers said the results were “even better than before.”
Others, though, argued that cheaper goods with fewer components were equivalent. This has experts asking whether proprietary skincare innovations mislead rather than wow consumers. So, is ANR truly at the forefront of cutting-edge skincare research, or is Estee Lauder simply aiming to entice us into paying a premium price tag with scientific jargon?
The new claims
Estee Lauder has been under pressure since its last ANR launch nine years ago.
The Ordinary provided strong anti-aging products with just one or two hero components for a fraction of the price, while No7 debuted a sell-out age-reversing retinol serum series. Estee Lauder was forced to up its game. Consumers may now purchase the brand’s newest solution, Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex.
“Our study has been driven by the scientific awareness that only around 25% of the ageing process is inherited, and roughly 75% is impacted by the environment,” said Dr Nadine Pernodet, vice president of Skin Biology and BioActives at Estee Lauder Companies. This means that we have a considerable amount of influence over how our skin seems to age.” This is when things become more tricky. The improved Chronolux Power Signal Technology is included in the new recipe.
Estee Lauder scientists discovered a particular micro-signaling molecule in skin cells that is required for natural skin restoration. “For the first time,” says Dr. Pernodet, “it gives youth-generating power, enabling the generation of fresh, new skin cells and collagen production.” It has the same texture and still promises to give 72-hour hydration, but the main difference between this and the prior ANR is that it promotes natural skin cell and collagen regeneration for plumper skin